Russ & Daughters

Russ & Daughters is not a deli — it's an "appetizing" shop, a specifically Jewish-American category that sells everything you'd put on a bagel (fish, cream cheese, spreads) but no meat. Joel Russ opened it in 1914. His daughters inherited it. Now the fourth generation runs it. The front counter is a wall of smoked fish in gleaming glass cases — nova, lox, sable, whitefish, sturgeon — and staff who will build you a bagel sandwich with the care of a jeweler setting a stone.

Order "The Classic" (Gaspé nova, cream cheese, tomato, onion, capers on an everything bagel) and understand why New York Jews have been eating this for 110 years. The babka is transcendent.

**Local tip:** The takeout counter on Houston is the original and always busy — the full sit-down Russ & Daughters Cafe around the corner at 127 Orchard is a separate experience with coffee, cocktails, and a menu of platters. Lines move fast at the counter. Pack the sandwich for a bench in nearby Seward Park.

**Best for:** Breakfast, lunch, a gift box to bring home, understanding the soul of the Lower East Side.